Histograms
The histogram at top in your camera in white is called a brightness or luminance histogram. It is a chart that includes a representation of up to 256 vertical lines on a horizontal axis that show the number of pixels in the image at each brightness level, from 0 (black) on the left side to 255 (white) on the right. (The LCD doesn’t have enough pixels to show each and every one of the 256 lines but instead provides a representation of the shape of a curve formed. The more pixels at a given level, the taller the bar at that position. If no bar appears at a particular position on the scale from left to right there are no pixels at that particular brightness level. You can increase or decrease the exposure (either by changing the f/stop or shutter speed in Manual mode or by adding or subtracting an EV value in A or S modes) to produce the corrected histogram. If the histogram shows all the tones bunched up in one place in the image the photo will be low in contrast. If the tones are spread out more or less evenly the image is probably high in contrast. Your goal should be to have all the tones in an image spread out between the edges, with none clipped off at the left and right sides. Underexposing (to preserve highlights) should be done only as a last resort because retrieving the underexposed shadows in your image editor will frequently increase the noise even if you’re working with RAW files. A better course of action is to expose for the highlights but when the subject matter makes it practical fill in the shadows with additional light using reflectors, fill flash, or other techniques rather than allowing them to be seriously underexposed. Taken from DB Nikon.
The histogram at top in your camera in white is called a brightness or luminance histogram. It is a chart that includes a representation of up to 256 vertical lines on a horizontal axis that show the number of pixels in the image at each brightness level, from 0 (black) on the left side to 255 (white) on the right. (The LCD doesn’t have enough pixels to show each and every one of the 256 lines but instead provides a representation of the shape of a curve formed. The more pixels at a given level, the taller the bar at that position. If no bar appears at a particular position on the scale from left to right there are no pixels at that particular brightness level. You can increase or decrease the exposure (either by changing the f/stop or shutter speed in Manual mode or by adding or subtracting an EV value in A or S modes) to produce the corrected histogram. If the histogram shows all the tones bunched up in one place in the image the photo will be low in contrast. If the tones are spread out more or less evenly the image is probably high in contrast. Your goal should be to have all the tones in an image spread out between the edges, with none clipped off at the left and right sides. Underexposing (to preserve highlights) should be done only as a last resort because retrieving the underexposed shadows in your image editor will frequently increase the noise even if you’re working with RAW files. A better course of action is to expose for the highlights but when the subject matter makes it practical fill in the shadows with additional light using reflectors, fill flash, or other techniques rather than allowing them to be seriously underexposed. Taken from DB Nikon.
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